Paris Fashion Week: Stella MCartney, Givenchy rule the ramp

Models wearing animal outfits joined the finale of Stella McCartney’s fur-free and leather-free show Monday, as the British-American designer continued to shine a light on the environment and animal cruelty in the industry. The show, which explored a chic cross-over silhouette in soft and huggable fabrics, was runway proof that ethically produced clothes can still have a strong luxury feel. Here are some highlights of autumn-winter 2020 shows.

STELLA MCCARTNEY

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A model presents a creation by designer Stella McCartney as part of her Fall/Winter 2020/21 women’s ready-to-wear collection show during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France, March 2, 2020. REUTERS/Piroschka van de WouwImage Credit: REUTERS

Long flappy belts and strips of fabric provided the vibrancy in Stella McCartney’s autumn collection that was otherwise missing amid the rather muted colour palette of “terrestrial tones.”

Inside the gilded salons of the Paris Opera, in her morning show, McCartney used the features in form to create a dynamic visual movement.

A nearly two-yard-long diagonal sash, held in place by two buttons, graced the front of a loose pastel-grey double-breasted suit to create a dynamic visual kinesis. Elsewhere, a long ribbed strap plunged down to the model’s knee from an abstractly shaped dark grey top, and a bone-coloured knitted dress hung heavily and limp with wavy ribbing. All these styles created a sense of clothes in action — an accomplished feat of design.

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A model presents a creation by designer Stella McCartney as part of her Fall/Winter 2020/21 women’s ready-to-wear collection show during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France, March 2, 2020. REUTERS/Piroschka van de WouwImage Credit: REUTERS

The collection, the house said, was inspired by Russian-born French modernist designer and illustrator Erte, who created dynamic and sometimes-windswept silhouettes, and whom McCartney met as a child.

Gold and silver animal jewellery in McCartney’s show added a playful touch, that crescendoed in the finale as 11 models walked the runway in full-on animal costumes, provoking laughs from tickled guests.

Behind the fun, lay a serious message.

None of these animals — cow, rabbit, bison, fox, crocodile — had been killed to produce the collection.

“We are proudly the only luxury fashion house in the world not putting real leather on our runway,” McCartney said. “And welcome our friends in fashion to join us.”

GIVENCHY

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A model presents a creation by Givenchy during the Women’s Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show at the ParisLongchamp Racecourse in Paris, on March 1, 2020. / AFP / Lucas BARIOULETImage Credit: AFP

A rough concrete runway, red neon lights, models who strutted aggressively and machines that spewed out cold smoke gave Givenchy’s show production a tough edge — befitting of ‘Game of Thrones’ actress Maisie Williams, who rocked the front row with punk-like two-tone hair.

This season designer Clare Waight Keller said she channelled “the gritty heyday of French cinema,” in the show, entitled “Arthouse Beauty.”

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A model presents a creation by Givenchy during the Women’s Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show at the ParisLongchamp Racecourse in Paris, on March 1, 2020. / AFP / Lucas BARIOULETImage Credit: AFP

But the so-called grit was scant in the clothes. It quickly gave way to a brooding and feminine collection of looks that riffed on geometry and played with form — with an ever-so-slight nod to “the silver screen allure” referenced in the show notes.

A beautiful multicoloured fur coat, that hung heavy and formless, had top panels that cleverly resembled a movie star’s stole from the studio era of Hollywood. Enormous graphic floppy hats in black shrouded the models’ faces in shadow, evoking a dramatic standoffish air. The same was true of crinkled leather opera gloves that covered up the arms completely in the styles of yesteryear.

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Kaia Gerber and other models present creations by designer Clare Waight Keller as part of her Fall/Winter 2020/21 women’s ready-to-wear collection show for fashion house Givenchy during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France, March 1, 2020. REUTERS/Gonzalo Fuentes TPX IMAGES OF THE DAYImage Credit: REUTERS

Yet this collection’s main theme was in the silhouette: Oversized tubular sleeves followed coats with razor-sharp lapels that looked like they had been cut with a scalpel. And voluminous proportions, especially in multitudinous 1970s’ pleated skirts, gave this collection a dynamic feeling.

Face masks or fashion statement: COVID-19’s stylish makeover

Long before face masks became a mandatory accessory in several countries to curb the spread of the coronavirus, they were showing up in style on the runways of Milan and the glittering red carpet ceremonies in Hollywood.

Back in January, when news of an ‘unknown virus’ was all but a column on page 12 in a newspaper, US singer Billie Eilish created frenzy at the Grammy Awards, donning a Gucci designer face mask.

The landscape may have altered dramatically in a few short months, but the stylised content still exists, albeit now, marketed for a good cause

Abu Dhabi launches digital payment platform for all government services

Abu Dhabi: Payments for all types of government services will now be made available online through ‘Abu Dhabi Pay’, as the emirate looks to accelerate its digital transformation.

The platform, launched by the Department of Government Support, will be accessible through the TAMM portal, offering customers a secure and standardised way of making digital payments for all government services across different channels. Customers will also benefit from multiple safe payment options, one time payments for multi party services and a unified experience across all government channels.

The government entities that are currently available through the platform at this stage include the Abu Dhabi Police, Department of Health, Department of Energy, Department of Economic Development, Department of Municipalities and Transport, Abu Dhabi Agriculture and Food Safety Authority, and the General Administration of Customs.

“The launch of the new platform comes in line with Abu Dhabi government efforts to improve the quality of life for individuals and society in Abu Dhabi, and to facilitate a seamless and hassle-free access to all government services,” said Ali Rashid Al Ketbi, chairman of the department of government support – Abu Dhabi.

“Abu Dhabi Pay is an essential step forward in the efforts made by all parties to strengthen Abu Dhabi’s position and leadership regionally and globally in the field of digital government,” he added.

Other features also available on the digital payment platform along with payment processing includes reconciliation and settlement, reports and audits. Payment channels include portals, mobile apps, POS, and cash deposit machines where payment methods include e-debit, e-wallet, credit cards, and cash. Currently, digital wallet and credit card payments are available while direct bank debit and other solutions for cash management will be added to the platform.

“Looking ahead, we will integrate ‘Abu Dhabi Pay’ with all of the digital channels of the remaining entities. This will include establishing the priorities and foundations required to complete the inclusion of digital channels for government agencies and communicating with them to study, prepare, and build the allocations required to complete the linking operations,” said engineer Mohammad Abdel Hameed Al Askar, acting director-general of the Abu Dhabi Digital Authority.

Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid: Unification Day comes as a reminder of UAE’s ‘perseverance’

His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Vice President and Prime Minister of the UAE and Ruler of Dubai, has said that as the country and the world face testing times during the coronavirus pandemic, the 44th anniversary of the UAE Armed Forces’ Unification Day comes as a reminder of this nation’s “perseverance” and “ability to overcome challenges.”

In a statement to the UAE’s military journal, Nation Shield, on the occasion, which is observed on May 6 every year, Sheikh Mohammed said, “Today, as we face unprecedented testing times – as is the entire world – the memory of the unification of our armed forces comes to strengthen our belief in our ability to move forward and in successfully overcoming this test.”

He added that the day “shines a ray of light amidst the darkness we are experiencing”, in reference to the pandemic.

Sheikh Mohammed has also affirmed that international cooperation has never been more needed, as the world is facing the COVID-19 crisis.

The statement in full is as follows:

Honourable sons and daughters of the nation,

Today, we remember the unification of our armed forces, and this year, we are marking the day during the holy month of Ramadan. It shines a ray of light amidst the darkness we are experiencing from the coronavirus; highlighting the good and giving in our homeland, and the good character of Emiratis, and their incomparable determination.

On this anniversary, we remember our Founding Fathers and their ability to conquer challenges, and reminisce on history of our armed forces, and its victorious track record since its unification on this day in 1976, by our father – the symbol of goodness, giving, building and achievement – the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan.

Today, we remember our children, who have died in the battlefields and have risen as martyrs, with appreciation and gratitude.

This occasion holds a special place in my heart, not only because I have lived through the early process of the unification of our armed forces, participated in its growth, kept pace with its various stages of development, and its progresses, but also because I enjoyed watching the active role the armed forces played in our country and society, as well as its success in integrating the civil, economic, cultural and psychological aspects of our Emirati model.

Moreover, our armed forces have excelled in protecting our security, stability, sovereignty and independence, and strengthening Emirati identity. It also succeeded in creating national human resources, affirming the merit and efficiency of the sons and daughters of the UAE, and embodying the principles of self-reliance.

And today, as we face unprecedented testing times – as is the entire world – the memory of the unification of our armed forces comes to strengthen our belief in our ability and perseverance to move forward, and in successfully overcoming challenges and this particular test.

The unification of the UAE Armed Forces goes hand in hand with the unification of the seven Emirates and the establishment of the United Arab Emirates. The Union’s survival depended on the unification of its armed forces, which proved to all, both locally and internationally, that the Union does not regress, and that its leadership is determined to consolidate its rules, build it up, and move it forward.

Officers, soldiers and citizens,

Over the past centuries, this region has been plagued by various types of epidemics, that would suddenly emerge and disappear without people knowing their source and the reason for their end. In the first half of the twentieth century, cholera, the plague, and other diseases have claimed the lives of thousands of people in the region.

There were no doctors, no treatment, and no vaccines. Nonetheless, our ancestors confronted these epidemics with courage, solidarity and altruism, and they overcame their ordeals. They stood up and continued to endure the difficult environment and harsh climate, and built, lived and preserved this land.

And today, the sons and daughters of the Emirates have risen as their ancestors before them, to confront this epidemic that swept the whole world.

Our healthcare and security sectors have seamlessly integrated into a working unit that operates harmoniously; providing an exemplary model for comprehensiveness, effectiveness and discipline.

Today, I extend my thanks and appreciation to my brother His Highness Sheikh Mohamed bin Zayed Al Nahyan, Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi and Deputy Supreme Commander of the UAE Armed Forces, for his generosity and his wise leadership and management of the national effort made in the face of this pandemic.

Under the directives of His Highness to the Supreme Council for National Security and the National Crisis and Emergency Management Authority, and with his relentless work on control measures, our country was able to control the spread of the virus, unlike what unfortunately happened in other countries, most of which are developed nations.

Dear citizens,

The past four months have been very difficult for all countries and peoples of the world. The negative effects of the pandemic are still emerging. Sometimes, it seems as if time had stopped and revolved only around this mysterious virus.

For us, these months, which may extend to many more, are a test of our ability to bear and adapt to preventive measures, and the readiness of our institutions, the merit of our plans, and our preparations to deal with pandemics and their economic and social repercussions. It is also a test of our health, security and service infrastructures, the efficiency of our banking system, and an examination of our awareness, patience and social solidarity.

We have succeeded in all these tests, but this success is not final. Ahead of us and the entire world, are still major questions that await answers. Questions remain about the source of this pandemic, the secrets of its rapid spread and transmission from one country to another, from one continent to another, to ships in the high seas, and to remote areas on the tip of the earth.

Until further notice, the specter of pandemics will continue to haunt our globe, and will affect human behaviour, priorities and ways of life. It will be at the forefront of the concerns of countries and the world at large, mainly for ensuring that history does not repeat itself.

These past four months have proven that nations have never needed to cooperate with each other as much as they need to today.

Earlier, I said that the world remained for years questioning: which leads the other? Does politics lead economics or does economics lead politics? And which is the cart, and which is the horse? We found in the time of the coronavirus that the horse and its carriage are both carried and lead by health. And so, I ask now, is it possible that in the aftermath of this pandemic that health services do not advance to the top of national priorities in every nation in the world? Can states, whatever their economic system, compromise the centrality of their role in providing adequate preventive and curative services to all their citizens?

Will the role of the World Health Organisation, WHO, remain marginal and with scarce resources? And is it not time for everyone to realise that limiting environmental pollution and global warming is not just scientific dueling or tools in economic competition, but is a real and crucial issue that if ignored will lead to disaster for all?

In any case, humanity’s efforts, including that of scientists, researchers, doctors and nurses to defeat the pandemic will succeed. But what about the economic and social repercussions? How will the countries of the world face them and what will the bet be on?

Of course, every country is responsible for itself, but the reality of mutual dependence between the countries of the world, the size of the huge interdependence between their economies and the reality of contagion that does not recognise borders and distances, will not enable a country, whatever its capabilities, to face the consequences on its own. There is no substitute for international cooperation that rises above excessive selfishness, and the blind seeking of wealth and influence.

With regard to us in the UAE, we know our size and we realise that our voice is heard and our model is a subject of interest and respect, and one of the principles of our approach is our constant endeavor to expand areas of cooperation with countries of the world and with international and regional organisations.

Despite the challenges brought on by the pandemic, and the global economic downturn during the past four months, which followed years of a slowing world economy and a decline in international trade, our country has maintained its position as one of the top countries that provide developmental assistance, and has actively participated in international efforts to combat the pandemic, providing thousands of tonnes of medical aid to those who request or need it.

Officers, soldiers, and citizens,

We in the UAE are confident in our ability to absorb the effects of this pandemic and learn lessons from its repercussions at all levels, and resume the path of growth and progress, relying on the abundant sources of our self-power, with our people in the forefront, the unity of our home, the efficiency of our military and civil institutions, the strength and diversity of our economy’s assets, the superiority of our infrastructure, and our involvement in the digital age.

I congratulate my brothers and children of the armed forces on this occasion that is dear to our hearts, I congratulate our sons and daughters, and I extend my congratulations to my brother, President His Highness Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan, and to His Highness, the Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi, and to my brothers, Their Highnesses, Members of the Supreme Council, and Rulers of the Emirates.

Windows 10X coming to single-screen devices first

San Francisco: Microsoft has confirmed that its aiming to refocus Windows 10X on single-screen devices like laptops first and will look for a right moment to integrate Windows 10X with dual-screen devices.

The move is seen as reprioritising Windows 10X for laptops and single-screen devices because of the COVID-19 pandemic.

“The world is a very different place than it was last October when we shared our vision for a new category of dual-screen Windows devices,” Panos Panay, Microsoft’s Chief Product Officer, Windows and Devices, said in a statement late Monday.

“With Windows 10X, we designed for flexibility, and that flexibility has enabled us to pivot our focus toward single-screen Windows 10X devices that leverage the power of the cloud to help our customers work, learn and play in new ways,” he added.

Windows 10X was originally planned for dual-screen devices like the Surface Neo.

“The single-screen devices will be the first expression of Windows 10X that we deliver to our customers, and we will continue to look for the right moment, in conjunction with our OEM partners, to bring dual-screen devices to market,” Panay informed.

In social distancing times, Microsoft users are spending over 4 trillion minutes on Windows 10 a month, a 75 per cent increase year on year.

“A great step the team is taking to meet customers where they are is with the Windows 10 May 2020 Update, coming free, as always, to every Windows 10 PC starting this month,” announced Panay.

In this update, Microsoft will introduce a more streamlined way to pair Bluetooth devices in Windows.

“We are bringing practical improvements in the bigger things, like an improved tablet experience when you detach your 2-in-1’s keyboard, allowing you to keep the familiarity of your desktop while at the same time optimizing for touch,” said the company executive.

With the May 2020 Update, “drag and drop” option will help those who use Eye Control functionality.

UAE’s Mars Hope Probe reaches launch site on Japan island

Dubai: The UAE’s Mars Hope Probe has been successfully transferred from the Mohammad Bin Rashid Space Centre in Dubai to the launch site on Tanegashima island in Japan.

The announcement was tweeted on Saturday by Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Vice President and Prime Minsiter of the UAE and Ruler of Dubai

He praised the move “as one of the most important final stages of the launch of the first Arab-Islamic probe for Mars”.

The transfer took place under the supervision of a team of Emirati engineers in a process that took 83 hours of continuous work, Sheikh Mohammed tweeted.

Despite the conditions of travel stopping globally, and despite the global health precautions, Emirati engineers are still working according to the approved schedule for the completion of the most important scientific space project in the region, he said.

The probe was developed in less than the usual period globally (only six years compared to 10) and at half the cost, Sheikh Mohammed added in a series of tweets. A video and pictures documenting the historic transfer were also shared.

Arab tennis coaches plan a carnival series to boost the game

Dubai: Tennis coaches from the Arab and Middle East regions have agreed on the launch of a ‘Tennis Carnival Series,’ possibly starting with the UAE, in near future.

The unique project is the brainchild of former UAE Tennis Federation (UAE TF) board member and general secretary Khalid Al Ali and a handful of coaches – including Ons Jabeur’s coach Essam Jellali and Elena Rybakina’s coach following a Zoom webinar earlier this week with close to 100 coaches attending from across the Arab world.

“We just thought we had to do something different for our sport after being kept away from the courts for nearly two months now. And then came this idea that we could all meet – coaches and players of various age groups in one location – and have a carnival series through a season,” Al Ali told Gulf News.

“The past few weeks have been challenging in more ways than one and as we all put our minds together, we came up with this idea of having a tennis series that would be a true testimony for everyone involved, be it the juniors or the veterans and coaches,” he added.

COVID-19: UAE jiu-jitsu team back in training behind closed doors

Dubai: The UAE national Jiu-Jitsu team has returned to active training to prepare for resumption of international competitions with a closed training camp at the Armed Forces Officers Club and Hotel in Abu Dhabi.

The UAE Jiu-Jitsu Federation (UAEJJF), the governing body for jiu-jitsu in the country, is ensuring that players, coaches and training camp support staff are subject to stringent medical examinations in line with local and international guidelines on containing the spread of COVID-19.

The camp was approved by UAE authorities after the UAEJJF board of directors devised a robust health screening plan for all participants at a recent board meeting. With strict public health and safety measures in place, the camp consists of two daily training sessions – a light training session before Iftar and a two-hour session from 10 pm till midnight.

A total of 43 national team players are participating in the camp, which is led by national team coach, Ramon Limos, with the support of fellow coaches Marcelo Nunes, Eduardo Da Silva, Samuel Araujo, Pablo Desero, Michelle Maya, Mohammad Al Qubaisi and under-18 coach Ebrahim Al Hosani. Training involves minimal contact, while social distancing measures are in place in and around the camp.

All UAE national team players were put through intense physical fitness and body fat composition tests after arriving at the camp, with the UAEJJF set to compare.

Mubarak Saleh Al Menhali, Director of the UAEJJF’s Technical Department, praised the dedication of the players in training and said they would be ready to compete at the highest level of international championships once the sport resumes globally.

“The UAE national team has a challenging path ahead and it’s our responsibility to help them maintain and enhance successes at previous championships. All being well, they are facing a packed calendar, including China’s Beach Games, the JJIF World Championship and the Abu Dhabi World Professional Jiu-Jitsu Championship. We must prepare now to ensure our players are well-placed to capture the golds and raise the UAE flag high in the coming months.” Al Menhali said.

No social distancing on board first repatriation flights to India

Dubai: There will be no social distancing on board the first repatriation flights to India, with ticket rates at Dh700 to Dh750 per passenger. The flights will start from May 7. Each flight will carry 200 passengers, which represents the full capacity on the aircraft used.

By removing the social distancing requirement, the Indian Government is trying to get in more passengers per flight, and thus bring down the ticket rates as well.

If social distancing was maintained, it would have meant rates would have shot up to Dh1,400 per passenger and more. This was one of the options authorities sounded out before deciding on the no social distancing move.

Blue-collar workers who lost their jobs will be given priority tickets. “Those who decide to go will want to go at the soonest rather than spending whatever savings they have in hand in the UAE,” said Jamal Abdulnazar, CEO of Cozmo Travel.

Commercial flights are set to bring back 14,800 Indians stranded globally in the first week of repatriation. Almost 2,000 Indians will be evacuated from the UAE between May to 14. However, almost 197,000 Indians have registered to be repatriated from the UAE alone.

Schedule of flights

Air India Express will operate the first two repatriation flights on May 7 from Abu Dhabi to Kochi and Dubai to Kozhikode. The carrier will deploy an Airbus A320 on the routes, with a capacity of 200 passengers each and single class configuration.

Other repatriation flights will be deployed from the UAE from Chennai, Lucknow, Hyderabad, Delhi and Amritsar between May 7 to 13.

Bringing on the big ones

“The larger Air India fleet of Boeing 777s and Dreamliners is expected to be deployed on long-haul routes such as the US, Europe and Australia to evacuate stranded Indian citizens there,” an industry source said.

However, this is the only first phase of evacuation, and private Indian carriers as well UAE airlines could be roped in the later stages.

Prices are expected to be capped even for private airlines operating repatriation flights, with rates likely to be around Dh1,100-Dh1,200.

Abu Dhabi sets up Dh550m fund to help out local exporters

Abu Dhabi: The Abu Dhabi Exports Office is setting up a Dh550 million fund to support the export sector, by helping out cash-strapped overseas buyers of UAE merchandise and the national companies that sell them.

“This is not only a difficult time for UAE exporters, but it’s also a challenging time for their overseas buyers,” said Mohammed Saif Al Suwaidi, Director-General of Abu Dhabi Fund for Development and Chairman of Adex. “Both are dealing with liquidity and cashflow issues, delayed supplier payments and limited access to financing.

“Adex provides a solution to these challenges that enables both the exporter and foreign importer to quickly and easily fund mutually beneficial transactions.”

How can this fund be tapped?

When a qualified overseas buyer certifies the successful completion of an Adex-funded transaction, Adex will then make a direct payment to the UAE exporter. The allocated funds will only be used for export transactions that are approved and qualify under the programme.

“We need all companies in the UAE to know how to access the full range of Adex financial products and services available to advance their business development efforts,” Al Suwaidi said. Adex is also working to establish partnerships with departments of economic development and chambers of commerce across all emirates to raise awareness on the new programme.