From Dubai to Cannes: Michael Cinco’s fashion reign continues

UAE-based fashion designer speaks about highs and lows of being a Cannes favourite.

Dubai-based Filipino designer Michael Cinco, who dressed up top Cambodian actress Yubin Shin in an electric blue gown with thousands of laser-cut flower detailing at this year’s Cannes Film Festival, claims his war cry for this prestigious film and fashion showcase is simple: “Go big or go home.”

And he has followed this fashion philosophy religiously every year when he sends a large shipment of gowns so that celebrities attending the festival from around the globe can live their fantasy red carpet moment.

“In my experience of dressing up stars from around the globe at Cannes, the actors and their stylists seek out huge, humongous gowns with long trains … Think big and dramatic,” said Cinco in an exclusive interview with Gulf News over the phone.

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Designer Michael Cinco takes a bow after his fashion exhibit in DubaiImage Credit: Supplied

“After all, it’s often their dream to walk the famous red carpet and make a bold fashion statement,” said Cinco with a laugh.

Case in point: the tulle and organza flower-studded royal blue gown with halter neck worn by Shin took over a month to execute and assemble, showcasing Cinco’s attention to detail and craftsmanship. The actress was spotted at the red carpet premiere of ‘Firebrand’, a film in the Cannes competition section.

For this year’s Cannes Film Festival, he also designed a yellow gown for Bollywood actress Aditi Rao Hydari. She’s yet to walk the red carpet.

“Her stylist from India was in touch with our team and we created a custom-made skirt in her favourite colour, yellow, along with an elaborate top. She’s likely to wear it on May 24 and I can’t wait to see her in them,” said Cinco.

Apparently, designers have little control over the gowns that stars ultimately choose and like fans, they too wait to see if their creations make the cut.

“It’s nerve wracking, but also exciting to see stars choose my designs for their big day out at Cannes … Stars and stylists, these days, are clued in about fashion because of the mushrooming of social media and so being plucked from a variety of choices is a big deal,” said Cinco.

The Dubai connect:

This Filipino talent, who moved to Dubai in 1997 and runs his own eponymous atelier, has become a favourite among Hollywood, Bollywood and Asian royalty. Hollywood pop idols such as Beyoncé, Lady Gaga, Mariah Carey, and Jennifer Lopez have all chosen Cinco’s creations for their public appearances in the past. Bollywood A-lister Salman Khan also wore his jacket for one of his hit films, shot in Dubai.

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Aishwarya Rai in Michael Cinco creationImage Credit: Supplied

However, Cinco attributes his soaring popularity on the Cannes fashion circuit to Aishwarya Rai Bachchan, former Miss World and one of India’s biggest cultural exports.

 

‘Don’t restrict the sari’: Here are some unique ways to drape the Indian garment

Blogger and sari influencer Kamal Kapur, on introducing the sari into our daily lives and the changing trajectory of the garment.

The sari has done it. It finally made its way to the global Met Gala red carpet as supermodel Naomi Campbell flaunted a sari-inspired gown from Chanel’s spring/summer 2010 couture collection. A silky salmon flowy fabric draped in visual cadence, covered by silver metallic embellishments for the blouse, the beauty icon gave hope that the sari may now be an international redcarpet staple, as argued by a wknd. cover story a few weeks ago. The sari also made an appearance recently at King Charles III’s coronation concert at the Windsor Castle as businesswoman Natasha Poonawalla wore a sheer nude sari and a bodysuit in a fusion twist.

But the sari has had a more robust legacy than what we see on stage and red carpets around the world. Just think of women with toddlers on their backs as they worked in fields and factories as well as homes. Their saris were laced in dyes, extracted from indigo, lac, red madder and turmeric. These are women who we now see painted across cave walls, ancient scriptures, and who became the muses of poetry, fables, and doe-eyed characters in black-and-white films. Kamal Kapur, an expat living in Dubai since 2001, likes to call the sari a working garment, and believes the traditional rigidity must be removed from the garment and should be embraced in diverse settings — be it daily life errands or parties. The blogger, who goes by the username ‘desibychoice’ on Instagram, has around 29.2k followers and is on a mission to normalise the sari within the desi community while removing the so-called traditional or ‘reserved for a Diwali function’ aspect from it. She goes on to tell wknd. about this dynamic relationship she has with the six-yards of elegance.

Journey along the drapes

Originally hailing from Chandigarh, India, when Kamal landed in Dubai, she went through the same dilemma that many expats do. What clothes to keep here? And the dawning realisation that many of her Banarasi and Jamdani saris would be collecting dust behind the closet’s doors. Every time she would go back home, bidding her saris farewell would be a downhearted affair. But it just so happened that in one of her social gatherings, she noticed how every Indian woman was wearing a gown and realised she wanted to break that system. From that day onwards, she made a conscious effort to wear saris in all her events and garnered some raised eyebrows and amused attention. “People would ask if I was dressing up for a fancy show, but later I realised they all started following me, saying, ‘Oh Kamal is going to be there, so I can wear a sari now, or wear a sharara. She is coming, I’m sure there will be some company’,” says Kamal. The power of a community has had a great impact on strengthening her purpose. “We downplay our tradition. Once we stand up for ourselves, the entire community will follow.”

On Kamal’s Instagram, one can see her donning saris in different locations, taking us back to Sridevi’s yellow chiffon sari moment as she ran amongst the green meadows in the Swiss Alps in Bollywood film Chandni. The blogger has also made a travelling sari, which has been to places like Switzerland, Scotland, Georgia, Banaras, and South Africa with her. “My first time was in Switzerland, and it was freezing cold, but I wanted to drape a sari. I wore a jacket and went, and then removed it once we reached the spot.”

Sari in the 21st century

“In ancient India, women were breaking bricks while wearing a sari and holding a child on their backs. We have complicated it in today’s world and reserved it for traditional occasions,” says Kamal, who believes in the modern world, a sari can be draped in any way, and infused with different cultures and styles to make it adaptable. “It is especially important for today’s young generation to embrace the sari. Just because mum told you to wear it a certain way and without showing your ankles, doesn’t mean it has to be worn that way. It is a fluid garment with drapes, do not restrict it,” says the influencer, who is often seen pairing a shirt with a sari, making it a modern fit for the workplace. Kamal doesn’t believe in stitching up a sari, as it ruins the concept at its core, and rather prefers to wear it in a drape. For a red-carpet sort of event, she prefers gown-like glamorous drapes, whereas for a causal lunch, she opts to wear an airy cotton sari. “I pick up whatever reflects my mood. All my saris are inspired by traditional and rural drapes.”

With the NMACC red carpet, where global stars like Gigi Hadid and Zendaya walked the soft baby pink ‘red’ carpet in sparkling saris, the spotlight shifted onto this versatile drape and now the trajectory of sari seems to be shifting. “Big stars wearing saris gives a comfort factor that what I have been wearing was right. People call me crazy sometimes, with the way I center my drapes and how different they can be.”

Overhyping of ‘empowerment’

To Kamal, empowerment is what comes from within, rather than external means. “When you start believing in yourself, that is when empowerment comes, and you become comfortable in your own skin. Being an expat here, we are so confused as to what we do or do not want,” says Kamal. The blogger often organises desibychoice meetups, where all the women turn up wearing saris, sometimes with a certain theme from a state of India. With the community that she has built, the women who were once hesitant to meet up in a mall with her wearing saris, can now be found in nightclubs and evening dinners draped in different styles of saris. “I call myself desi by choice because I am not desi by root because of my mother who is Indian. It’s because I want to be desi and have empowered myself to say that with the stamp. We do not want a reason to be this.”

 

Dresses made of chocolate hit Dubai runway: fashion

Models sashayed down the catwalk wearing unique, show stopping creations put together as a tribute to fashion and pastry.

Long veils with chocolate trimmings, solid chocolate headpieces, and belts made of macarons made a splash on the runway as a unique chocolate festival kicked off in Dubai.

The Salon Du Chocolate trade show, which has been running in different parts of the world for the last 29 years, returned to Galeries Lafayette at Dubai Mall for three days of chocolate extravaganza.

Models sashayed down the runway wearing creations made out of chocolate in a tribute to fashion and pastry. The dresses were put together by designers and pastry chefs who worked for months to bring the pieces alive. Here are some of the key moments:

1. Rihanna: The fashion show kicked off with this piece designed by Chef Charles Azar and fashion designer Michelle Kisaayke Aber. With flowers, stones, and, of course, chocolate, the dress paid homage to award-winning singer Rihanna and the major trends she has set through her career.

2. Josephine Baker: The French dancer known for her banana skirt was the inspiration behind this creation by Jumeriah Al Naseem executive pastry chef Julien Jacob and fashion designer Deanthe Somaiah.

3. Audrey Hepburn: This dress was created by chef Brice Konan-Ferrand from Ecole Valrhona Pastry Chef and designer Raghida Tabch. It was inspired by the floral prints worn by actress Audrey Hepburn in the movie Funny Face.

4. Queen Elizabeth the First: Chef Edmond Roukoz and designer Yasmaman Tarazi. The queen was a great follower of fashion and is thought to have greatly influenced the style of her time. A solid chocolate wand and butterfly wings have added a touch of royalty to this piece.

5. Madonna: Truly like the singer herself, this piece was an eye-popping, show-stopping creation. Made with hundreds of chocolate balls, the dress was designed by Chef Christiane S. Trilck and fashion designer Juliane Knips. The ensemble was complete with an edible chocolate mic.

6. Marie Antoinette: The fashionable queen Marie Antoinette was the inspiration for this piece with its flowing trail and iconic hat. Designed by Chef Ashwani Pathania Kumar and fashion designer Takwa Alfaisal, the piece was an homage to the queen’s heavily decorated dresses

7. Lady Di: The final showstopper was designed by award-winning chef Karim Bourgi and designer Lynn Accad. The piece was worn by Jihane Daghar of Maman chocolate as a mark of respect to the late Princess Diana who is still considered a fashion icon with her impeccable taste

Fashion and faith: Top UAE-based stylists and bloggers offer festive styling tips to celebrate modest clothing and styling.

From kaftan or no kaftan, to the right sleeves to pick, to the colours en vogue this season, here’s everything you need to know when putting together the perfect outfit for your celebrations this is fashion and faith.

It’s no secret that when you dress better, you feel better. Besides the vanity, what dressing up for yourself also signifies is the time and effort you set aside to prioritise your needs and celebrate yourself through all the highs and lows that life throws your way. So, to dress for you, celebrate you and show you off this Eid Al Fitr, we reached out to the top fashion influencers and stylists in the region to tell us how to get started in figuring out the daunting task of putting together that perfect ‘Eid look’. With these tips and tricks, you can identify the key factors to pay attention to when styling yourself and how to look and feel your best this festive season. So, while you’re out and about this Eid, remember to show up as your best self — brimming with joy and confidence — to mark the true spirit of celebration.

Modest wear’s glory days

While there is no set garment for the occasion, people around the world typically opt for traditional wear, rooted in modesty, to pay respect to the culture. Whether it’s the modernised versions of kaftans, traditional abayas or the classic jalabeya, traditional wear takes centrestage during the festive occasion. However, modest fashion is no longer limited to annual Ramadan capsules or to Muslim consumers, says Lara Elias, a UAE-based stylist who styles a wide range of clientele, including television personalities (Instagram: @laraeliass). “Modest wear earlier, especially for women who wear hijab, was very limited. But now, with the colour mixes and trendy styles, modesty has become popular and attractive even with people outside of the faith,” adds Heba Hammad, a fashion stylist and blogger based in Dubai.

In recent times, modest fashion has also become one of the most sought-after segments in the fashion industry, with modest wear even being showcased in fashion shows. According to Marmar Al Hilali (Instagram: @themarmar), who’s an Iraqi fashion and lifestyle influencer brought up in the UAE, with brands like Valentino and Chanel creating collections with a special emphasis on modesty, there’s a wider audience for modest wear. “The mainstream attention also means that we get to see modest clothing on the runways, which is a huge step forward,” says Sally Dandashly, a UAE-based fashion stylist and colour analyst. But what truly underlines the boom in modest clothing is the spirit of growth and innovation, says Lara. “While sartorial preferences may take new shapes and forms, modest wear will continue to serve as a profoundly unifying force for women who choose to cover their bodies,” she adds.

How to get started

With modest and traditional wear generally enjoying the spotlight, the options to choose from different designs and materials are vast. This is also why making sartorial decisions based on angular tips offered by expert stylists can make your life all the more easier. “A starter tip I usually offer to my clients is to gather images of styles that you like on social media, magazines, photos here and there and create a moodboard for yourself, which will inspire you to come up with your perfect Eid outfit,” says Sally, who goes by the Instagram handle @stylingby_sal. “Ultimately, each one of us has a different personality, so you can get inspired but don’t copy anyone on social media,” she adds.

What’s also important to consider is the size and scale of the gathering you’ll be attending. “If it’s family or friends gathering, you can go for a smart casual look, wearing a colourful dress with a matching bag and shoes or pants and shirt/top with statement accessories to elaborate the look,” says Heba. Awarded the top 100 bloggers in the UAE, the Egyptian fashion blogger posts daily styling tips, images and reels on her Instagram @stylebyfashi_ to help others discover their individual style.

“Selecting the right eyeliner that spotlights your eyes and a lipstick to complement your skin tone will always be a timeless look,' says Marmar.

Another innovative technique to get started is to pick out descriptive words for how you want to look and feel in a situation. “For example, for an if

tar reception, you may want to look smart, creative or friendly,” says Lara. You then translate these descriptors to traits in clothing. “‘Smart’ will be neat and polished. ‘Creative’ will be innovative and unusual. ‘Friendly’ will translate to casual and unpretentious.” Finally, you translate the traits into items of clothing. ‘Neat’ and ‘polished’ can be a dress paired with a waist belt, the stylist explains.

Choosing your colours

Based on general consensus amongst the stylists, choosing the right colour scheme can define your look and take your outfit to the next level. “There is a reason why we see the world in colour,” says Sally, who’s studying colour psychology and helps her clients pick out the perfect shades that complement their personality. “Funnily, I don’t believe in colour trends. It’s more important to wear colours that suit your skin tone and personality. Choosing the right shades will instantly give you a youthful glow,” says Sally.

“Choosing the right shades will instantly give you a youthful glow,' says Sally Dandashly, fashion stylist and colour analyst in the UAE.
“Choosing the right shades will instantly give you a youthful glow,” fashion stylist and colour analyst in the UAE.

While you shouldn’t limit yourself in terms of which colours you can or cannot wear, a colour analyst can help you choose the right shades and tones of the primary colours to elevate your complexion. “Colours can also help change the mood of your outfit and make you feel comfortable in your skin,” mentions Heba.

Bold colours seem to have taken centrestage this Ramadan, along with feathers, and intricate prints, says Marmar. Adding to that, Lara points out three colours that have defined the trends this Ramadan and will be popular during Eid Al Fitr. “Purple and dark violet symbolises wealth, wisdom, dignity, pride and independence. Yellow represents happiness and joy. Green and turquoise symbolise new life and growth. These colours beautifully encapsulate the spirit of the celebrations,” says Lara.

Once you’re able to choose the right colours, you can also figure out the right makeup for your skin tone. “Identifying your skin tone, skin type and undertone is pivotal to figure out which colours will suit you,” says Heba. “Depending on the occasion, it can help you decide whether to go for a light or a bold makeup look.”

When it comes to picking the right makeup this Eid, Marmar recommends going classic, to enhance your natural beauty without overpowering the look. “Selecting the right eyeliner that brings out your eyes and a lipstick to complement your skin tone will always be a timeless look,” she adds.

Body shape and sleeves

Body shape is another key factor to consider when choosing outfits for a special occasion. But what happens if you aren’t able to identify it? “Though you can always consult a stylist, there is a general tip to consider. Always try to balance out your figure with the outfit, to be on the safe side,” says Sally. “For example, when wearing a loose top paired with loose pants, why not tuck in the top to define your waist? Or if you’re wearing wide-legged pants with a tight top, you can add a blazer while tucking in the top,” she mentions.

The sleeves on the outfit should also complement the body shape, says Heba. “If you’re an apple body shape, you should avoid tight and layered sleeves because it will give you a wide shoulder look. Pear body shape can go for bell sleeves. Puffy sleeves are ideal to balance wider hips. And flutter sleeves will add width and balance to your shoulders,” she adds. “If you have wide shoulders and you’d wish to wear a piece with statement sleeves, pair it with a skirt that has volume or wide-legged pants and don’t forget to define your waist,” says Sally.

“Restyle and rewear is the game here! Fashion should always be fun, so this can be a way for you to get creative,' says Heba Hammad, UAE-based fashion blogger and stylist from Egypt.
“Restyle and rewear is the game here! Fashion should always be fun, so this can be a way for you to get creative,”

Restyling your existing wardrobe

With the sustainable fashion movement gaining momentum, you no longer have to rush to the mall with every new occasion or buy mindlessly and pile up your clothes in the back of your closet. “Restyle and rewear is the game here! Fashion should always be fun, so this can be a way for you to get creative. Organise your closet, change your shopping habits, purchase statement pieces, and remember, quality over quantity,” says Heba. “As a stylist, I have seen a lot of wardrobes and what’s always shocking to me is that only 20 per cent of the wardrobe is worn by the client,” mentions Sally. “So, why not restyle old pieces for Eid? I believe each piece of clothing has a right to be worn. And this way you’ll be saving the environment plus your wallet.”

Layering your clothes is also an easy way to restyle your old pieces and mix them up to create new styles, says Lara. “You can layer a mesh under a long dress with strappy sandals or layer a vest over a dress in the same family of colours but different prints or vice versa.” Classic pieces in your wardrobe, like an oversized shirt or shirtdress, can also be restyled, the stylist mentions. “You can restyle your shirtdress by opening the lower buttons and team it with wide legged pants or style it with your denims and a trendy bag for an Eid lunch,” says Lara.

To accessorise or not to accessorise

Different people have different preferences when it comes to accessorising, so you can always decide based on your personal dressing style. However, learning about the right accessories that accentuate the outfit can add magic to your look. “Accessories can elevate your normal look to a stylish one,” says Sally. “This Eid, you should open your jewellery box and choose necklaces with different types of wires to layer one on top of the other,” she adds. “Avoid layering the same types of chains to avoid the chaos of tangling.” Stacking jewellery can be a game-changer, the stylist adds. “Stacking up necklaces, bracelets, even rings can help curate a lovely Eid outfit.”

Marmar recommends going with statement jewellery to accessorise for this occasion. “It adds such glamour to the outfit and each person can select pieces that speak to their own style,” says the influencer, who’s also an architect by profession and enjoys designing spaces as much as her personal style. “Personally, I always go for diamonds or a new watch to add an element to my Eid outfit,” she adds.

Heba Hammad
Heba Hammad

On the other hand, Heba advises against over-accessorising. “The less the accessories, the better the look,” she adds. “Especially if you’re wearing a sparkly abaya, matching it with classic heels and bag, small earrings and a bracelet are more than enough. If the outfit has sparkles, the bag and heels shouldn’t.”

Faith and fashion

Lastly, what’s unique to the culturally diverse country we call home is the amalgamation of different nationals that reside in the UAE. When it comes to Ramadan and Eid celebrations, several residents outside of the faith also partake in the fasting practices and celebrate the holy month with a community spirit. If you aren’t Muslim but still enjoy dressing up for Eid celebrations, all you have to do is pick something new. “It could be a new piece, a new bag or even a new style from your existing wardrobe,” says Sally. “Eid is for everyone! It’s the perfect excuse to dress up and feel good about yourself, whether you celebrate it or not.”

Marmar Al Hilali
Marmar Al Hilali

Living in such a diverse country, there are ample ready-to-wear options in stores for anyone who wants to celebrate the culture. “Something as simple as wearing a kimono over a dress can also make you feel like a part of the cultural celebration,” adds Lara. And while these are festive dressing tips, the same guidelines can be applied to your everyday dressing, too. So, kaftan or no kaftan, don’t forget to celebrate you this Eid.

Indian model Uorfi Javed detained in Dubai for wearing provocative outfit

Reports suggests that she is currently being questioned by UAE officials.

Social media sensation Uorfi Javed has been arrested by Dubai police for filming in public wearing a revealing dress.

Uorfi frequently grabs the public’s attention and makes headlines by posting videos and pictures of herself wearing exposing or unusual attire.

According to the Indian website Hindustan Times, Uorfi Javed, known for her provocative and rebellious outfit choices, is currently being questioned by officials in Dubai.

Uorfi has been in the United Arab Emirates for more than a week for the shoot of one of her upcoming projects, the news website reported.

As per reports, Uorfi was detained in Dubai for allegedly filming a video in public, wearing provocative clothing in public, which is illegal in the nation.

According to another Indian website ETimes, there was ‘no problem’ with Uorfi’s outfit.

However, she was being questioned by Dubai authorities because she recorded the video in an ‘open area’.

The report further stated that Uorfi’s return flight to India might be delayed by the UAE local authorities.

 

Dubai-based actor and model Shreyas Mehta launches fashion line, Flashmob Nation

High-street designer brand launched at Dubai Design District on March 12.

Flashmob Nation, a high-street designer brand by actor-cum-model Shreyas Mehta, was launched at the Dubai Design District on March 12. The launch, followed by an after-party, created a considerable frenzy, receiving praises from attendees and industry stalwarts. Flashmob Nation, a marriage of local textile influences and global high-street designer trends, complements the city’s flourishing fashion culture and unique cosmopolitan identity.

Founder, Mehta, an actor and model of Dubai Boy fame, regards Flashmob Nation as an extension of himself — an identity shaped by Dubai’s unshakeable spirit, multiculturalism, and cosmopolitanism. Mehta’s decade-long work experience as a buyer, combined with academic credentials, too, inspired the launch of the high-street designer brand.

“My sincere gratitude to everyone who was part of Flashmob Nation, from its conception to the successful launch. It wouldn’t be possible without their word-of-mouth efforts and unconditional support. I envision the brand to be a microcosm of Dubai’s textile culture someday — something the fashion aficionados in the city are proud to call their own,” expresses Mehta, the breakout star of Bravo TV’s popular reality show, Love Without Borders.

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Flashmob Nation announced itself through eye-catching inaugural collections, including a bohemian ensemble called the Snob Society and a purpose-clothing set named the Party Criminal. Both feature a generous amount of sequin, characterising the brand’s promise of exquisite design and differentiation. Sequin is the staple, be it on one-shoulder bodycon and mini dresses, contemporary crop tops, or eccentric oversized jackets.

Zip-up and buttoned co-ords in creative silver tones and solid colours exemplify Flashmob Nation’s sync with contemporary cosmopolitanism. Partygoers can revel in shine-finish belted coats, faux fur corset tops, embellished denim, and vintage black blazers. Avid fans of deconstruction fashion will appreciate distressed t-shirts, just as admirers of bohemian designs will value jazzy “shackets” and shirts with embroidered collars and cuffs.

A testament to the brand’s range and inclusivity is the Basic collection comprising quality hoodies and trousers. Stylistic nuances aside, the entire catalogue — dresses, t-shirts, partywear, denim, tracksuits, and more — boasts a uniformity of premium fabric, stand-out design, and effortless fashion. “There is something for everyone,” affirms Mehta.

“We have drawn eclectic influences before designing the inaugural collections, reinterpreting the bygone textile culture as well as reconciling with contemporary fashion. So, it is essentially global high-street fashion with a delicate touch of Dubai. At the same time, it betrays any particular fashion paradigm, thereby retaining an identity that is unique to the brand,” adds Mehta.

Dubai-based jewellery designer on designing gemstones with a twist

Meet the popstar of high jewellery, Pavit Gujral.

A gemologist by education, and a jewellery designer by profession, Pavit Gujral is a Dubai-based jewellery designer whose creations are known to intertwine with the elements of nature. Be it starfishes and parrots dangling from one’s ears, or daisies and fishes nestled between collarbones, Pavit’s designs reflect unique styles, with a story behind them all. Recently showcasing her designs at the Dubai Design District, Pavit won the prestigious Inhorgenta Award in Munich, Germany, for her crab earrings from her Marine collection. The designer, who graduated from the Gemological Institute of America, has previously won the Saul Bell Design Awards in the US, and the IJ Jeweller’s Choice Design Awards in India.

Voyage, Marine, Sylvan, Memoir and Le Fleur, the designer’s collections are heavily influenced by a harmonious concoction of art, nature, moments and architecture, enriched deeply with the history of the gem. Sapphires, rubies, diamonds and topazes are no stranger to her as she takes pride in infusing colour and grandeur into her pieces, while paying ode to the stone. Ahead of her win, the designer opens up on her love for gems, and the journey to creating a niche.

The muses behind Pavit’s creations are not only limited to elements of nature, but she also takes inspiration from architecture. “Especially when I travel, I keep an eye out for different sorts of architecture because I feel the design industry is interconnected. Be it fashion design, jewellery design, or interiors or whatever architecture, that is one of my main inspirations. I even did projects on Zaha Hadid’s building.”

Gemstones are the main element in her designs. Pavit incorporates the colour and class that these precious stones bring into a piece. “As a gemologist, gemstones are something that I really want to promote, especially the lesser-known gemstones which are rarer and more valuable than the known ones.”

With changing trends and styles, bold jewellery has taken a backseat lately with more minimalism and simplistic designs coming to the front. But Pavit believes there is a market for her niche. “I think there was always a niche market for artistic jewellery, which is something that I try to do. I know I’m targeting a niche market for people who appreciate art, but I think that market is getting bigger and there are more people who are looking at jewellery as art and not just an investment,” says Pavit. Following trends is not something that she abides by, and instead prefers to create her own trends. “All my pieces are inspired by ideas that come very spontaneously and that’s why I can’t be following a trend. If I do, then somewhere or the other I will be compromising.”

The jewellery designer goes by the term ‘jewellery popstar’ on Instagram, a term inspired by her iconic inspiration, Lady Gaga, as she hopes to become the first of her kind in the industry.

Hailing from Punjab, India, the colours that Pavit infuses into her works are inspired by the colourful nature and diversity of her country. She even designed an inter-cultural piece, which was the Indian tikka, inspired by Egyptian pyramids. “Tikkas are usually round or crescent shaped, so I ended up doing a triangle version of it, which has never been seen before and all the diamonds in it were also triangular. I love playing with shapes and colours.”

Be it on her Instagram feed or in her exhibitions, there is always a detailed story and history of the gemstone mentioned either in the form of a post or a QR code. Pavit goes by the principle of educating people about what they are wearing and adding more value to it through its rich history. “There’s a piece, which I have designed with my grandmother’s old stones, so that is something they really enjoy knowing about. Otherwise, it’s just a piece of jewellery. The story adds value to it.”

Dubai-based actor model Shreyas Mehta launches high-street designer fashion brand ‘Flashmob Nation’

  • Actor-cum-model and the “Dubai Boy”-fame Shreyas Mehta’s high-street designer brand ‘Flashmob Nation’ was launched at the Dubai Design District, marking the dawn of homegrown labels in the city’s flourishing textile and cosmopolitan culture

Dubai, UAE: Flashmob Nation, a high-street designer brand led by Dubai-based actor-cum-model Shreyas Mehta, was launched at the Design District, on 12th March, with great fanfare. The launch of a local high-street designer brand, Flashmob Nation, coincides with a unique juncture when the city is shaping a unique textile and cosmopolitan identity globally.

Actor and model of the “Dubai Boy” fame, Shreyas Mehta is the brains behind Flashmob Nation, which he regards as a product of his decade-long work experience as a buyer and a lifelong desire to launch a label that empowers people in more ways than one. A well-timed launch, Flashmob Nation garnered an overwhelming and positive response from industry stalwarts and attendees. The brand frenzy carried over to the glittering after-party as well.

“The launch of Flashmob Nation at Dubai Design District was special because of what we aim to achieve: A high-street designer brand that the city can call its own. My sincere gratitude to everyone who was part of this ambitious vision from the get-go. Your unconditional support, word-of-mouth efforts, and patronage turned this vision into a grand reality,” expressed Shreyas Mehta, who recently starred in Bravo TV’s popular reality show ‘Love Without Borders’.

A unisex brand with sartorial excellence and a strong sense of cosmopolitanism, Flashmob Nation has announced itself with diverse offerings. Its entire portfolio of dresses, t-shirts, partywear, denim, tracksuits, and more exhibit only a few uniformities: Premium material, eye-catching design, and an unapologetic sense of fashion. The inaugural collections include a bohemian ensemble called the ‘Snob Society’ and a fit-for-purpose set named the ‘Party Criminal’.

Sequin-heavy apparel dominates the collections with its exquisite attribute, bearing the stand-out promise of Flashmob Nation. From one-shoulder bodycon and mini dresses to contemporary crop tops to eccentric oversized jackets, sequin is the staple. Carefree clubbing is embodied by zip-up and buttoned co-ord sets in outlandish silver tones and solid colours. Shine-finish belted coats, faux fur corset tops, embellished denim, and vintage black blazers are not just party outfits but party starters in their own right.

“Creative expression meets high-street fashion in our inaugural collections. We have drawn eclectic influences before designing them, be it reinterpreting the bygone textile culture or pushing the boundaries of contemporary fashion. The core objective of Flashmob Nation is stylistic liberation; not to box itself within existing fashion paradigms,” added Mehta.

His beliefs are best exemplified by avant-garde options such as distressed t-shirts and embroidered collars and cuffs in plain shirts and flamboyant “shackets”. And for those who seek modern minimalism, Flashmob Nation strikes a chord with its “Basic” collection of co-ord sets of hoodies and trousers. The inclusiveness, Mehta says, will always be the defining spirit of Flashmob Nation — Dubai’s all-new homegrown high-street designer brand.

About Shreyas Mehta

Born in Mumbai and bred in Dubai, Shreyas Mehta is a model-cum-actor whose approach to life and career is rooted in a culture of discipline, hard work, and relentless pursuit of excellence — qualities he brought to the screen in his breakthrough role in Bravo TV’s ‘Love Without Borders’. In the hit series, Shreyas instantly struck a chord with the global audience for his screen persona and for truly embodying the multicultural spirit of Dubai. Like many success stories in Dubai, Shreyas’ journey began with robust academic credentials. 

The unique combination of an undergraduate degree in mass media and postgraduation in fashion design first led Shreyas to Twenty4, a brand where he honed his skills and excelled in the Buyer role. It didn’t take long for Shreyas to emerge as the face of leading brands, feature in several advertisements and major fashion weeks like IIJW, model for sought-after fashion designers, and bag many accolades, including the Tassel Designers Award 2013.

While building on the success of ‘Love Without Borders’ and advancing his career in the entertainment industry, Shreyas Mehta is gearing up for the launch of his own fashion label, which represents a blend of his strong creative streak, academic knowledge, and diverse cultural experiences spanning Middle Eastern, Indian and Western design influences.

The mean life of a ‘midsize’ model

On TikTok, a midsize movement is forming, but models like Jill Kortleve are rarely cast in glossy brand campaigns or on the catwalks. Why not?

In Paris last month, at the Chanel couture show, there was something about one model that set her apart from the others on the runway.Strikingly beautiful, Jill Kortleve has almond-shaped eyes, dark bushy eyebrows and chiselled cheekbones. Since her runway debut for Alexander McQueen in 2018, she has appeared on many magazine covers; modelled in Versace, MaxMara and Jacquemus shows; and starred in advertising campaigns for Valentino Beauty and Fendi, to name but a few.

But what makes her an unusual star for the high-fashion industry is not the fact that she is 29, making her older than many of her peers, or that she is 5-foot-8, making her shorter than many of them, too. It is the fact that Kortleve is a US size 8 to 10 — or “midsize” — as the middle ground between petite and plus size is increasingly known. “Straight” size, or under a US size 2, remains, overwhelmingly, the fashion industry norm.

Plus-size models, typically those above a US size 12, have become better represented in high fashion. “Curve” models like Paloma Elsesser, Precious Lee and Ashley Graham have thriving careers.

For years, however, Kortleve has been one of the few midsize models of note. In January, she was the only midsize model cast by Chanel for its couture show. There were a handful of others at shows like Valentino, but last season, Kortleve was the only midsize model to be cast by the marquee names on the couture calendar.

Diversity on the runways (or the lack of it) has come under intense scrutiny in recent years. So, at a time when midsize fashion is gaining momentum elsewhere — in mass market apparel branding and on TikTok, where the #midsize hashtag has more than 4 billion views — why is it still overlooked by the overlords of luxury fashion? And, in 2023, what does midsize — or average — sizing even mean?

Knives and dolls: M3GAN, Chucky and my chronic fear of three-foot, plastic evil

Thanks to a childhood encounter with a plastic fiend named Jesmar, Ben Bryant has spent his life terrified yet intrigued by the surprisingly extensive killer doll film genre. As ‘M3GAN’ hits cinemas, he delves into why we’re still so spooked by them.

am alone in the house. But I know she’s upstairs listening. If I keep the cartoons loud enough maybe she won’t hear me put on my Batman slippers. I shuffle softly to the door and pull it open just enough to squeeze through into the hall. There’s the front door. The bunch of keys on the mat where my mum posted them through the letterbox. Will I be able to find the right key in time? I look up and Jesmar is there, standing at the top of the stairs, with her patchwork playsuit, placid smile and straw-coloured fringe. The air is electric and I can hear a terrible moaning. I need to run but suddenly I’m swimming through concrete. Where is the key –

“Sir?” There is a light on my face. “Sir! Are you alright?” The air hostess is standing over me. The moaning is very loud now. The moaning is coming from me. Oh my god “Aaaaaaaaaahhh I’m sorry, I was having a nightmare.”

I have just been woken up on a packed long-haul flight to New Zealand. My mistake? I’d watched Annabelle Comes Home – the third in the series of horror films about a killer doll. It’s not generally regarded as the best of the franchise, but it was easily frightening enough to provoke a recurring childhood nightmare about Jesmar, a life-size doll from my childhood that belongs to my mum. Jesmar was at one point bigger than me.

Dolls – particularly dolls that are made to a certain specification of three-foot tall and blue eyed with yellow, straw-like hair – are an ongoing source of fear and fascination for me. So the announcement of M3GAN, a horror film about a blue-eyed AI doll that sings “Titanium” by Sia and goes on a murder spree, filled me with anticipation.

The hype around it shows that I am not alone. There is a surprisingly extensive niche of doll horror movies. I have combed through them mainly, I think, to prod at my weird phobia to see what gives me chills and what just leaves me cold. The pioneering Child’s Play franchise, which started in 1988, never left too much of an impression – perhaps because my introduction to it was the satirical Bride of Chucky, by which point the series was so camp it had become a horror comedy. The Conjuring and Annabelle franchises – for me the best and worst, a terrifying watch – came much later, in the 2010s. Stop motion in films can sometimes push the same buttons – especially Ash’s dancing wife Linda in Evil Dead 2.