If you’ve ever experienced a skin breakout, you’ll know perfectly well that instinct to want to reach for a concealer and cover up the offending spot with the magic of makeup. God forbid it was more than a single zit, because the more severe forms of acne – inflamed red spots that literally take over your face and give you the appearance of having come out on the wrong side of a battle with a hornet’s nest – have the power to make you want to cancel all your appointments and just stay home. That’s because stepping out with such unsightly blemishes has always been unthinkable… well, at least, that was the case, pre-2018.
The current skin positivity movement, however, has been gaining such ground that it’s making the beauty industry do a veritable volte-face. Pimples are now neither gorgeous nor ghastly – they’re normal. And, surprisingly, it’s the industry’s own models and influencers we have to thank for kickstarting this debate. Hashtags like #FreeThePimple (more on that in a bit) have been around for a few years now, but it was Kendall Jenner (she of Keeping Up With The Kardashians fame) boldly taking to the Golden Globes red carpet with zits in January this year that really shone the spotlight on what’s now being hailed as pimple positivity.
The 22-year-old model’s journey with acne is one she’s addressed before. In a post to her fans on her website about three years ago, the InstaGirl spoke of how her “terrible” acne completely ruined her self-esteem. “I wouldn’t even look at people when I talked to them,” she wrote. “I felt like such an outcast; when I spoke, it was with my hand covering my face.” Today, she knows better and her tweet in January encouraging a fan to “never let that s*** stop you” went viral as the ‘perfect response to skin-shaming trolls’ everywhere.
According to Dr Fady G Haddad, chief dermatologist at Shamma Clinic in Jumeirah, roughly 80-90 per cent of people will experience “at least one form” of acne in their lifetime. It’s a condition he sees daily in his practice – and it is definitely women that outnumber men in seeking medical help for the condition, he notes. Although most prevalent during adolescence, the incidence of acne in adult women is currently on the rise – a phenomenon he attributes to multiple factors, including increased stress levels, excessive use of makeup and, of course, hormonal fluctuations.
“Without a doubt, acne brings with it a lot of emotional distress and can have a significant impact on quality of life,” he says. “Adult female patients often report frustration, embarrassment and distress over their acne, and it tends to affect the self-esteem of older women more than younger ones.” The media has only exacerbated the problem in the past, he adds.
“The power of media – whether online or on TV – has increased the standards [of what beauty should look like], so people often aspire to look just like the actors and public figures with impeccable skin that they see in showbiz,” he says. “Imagine, I’ve even had influencers come in, who desired the smooth, glowing and ‘blemish-less’ skin of other influencers! I always have to remind them that there are such things as makeup and Photoshop.”
So deeply entwined is this desire for flawless skin with patients’ self-esteem that Dr Fady often finds himself playing the role of counsellor as well. “I try to explain that a woman who has duties at home or work, or both, cannot – and should not – try to compete with those who are less active, have more time to sleep and visit spas, and have house help. Is it not more positive to have acne with an active, interesting life rather than flawless skin with a dull or unproductive life?”
At times, the pep talk works; at times, some cases are so psychologically affected that Dr Fady suggests they consider seeking the help of a psychologist or life coach to help them regain their confidence. “Not everyone appreciates the advice though. Hence, the concept of pimple positivity comes in handy and should be reinforced.”